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Just a Thought…

Templates — Once and You're Done!

In my exploration of appliqué I continued to run into steps that didn't make sense or really weren't necessary.  In the process I tried an array of new techniques.  Through trial and error and just about unintentionally I ended up with my hi-profile appliqué sewing method.  I eliminated most of the marking; and all of the pressing and basting.  But, yes, I still make templates — really nice templates.  Everyone has their own opinion about the most important step in appliqué but I believe good templates are crucial to achieving an impressive end product.  For me templates become tools.  I use them to mark the background fabric, to cut the appliqué fabrics and to finger press the turn-under allowance of each appliqué piece.

I use a rather stiff standard template plastic.  There's no need for the heat-resistant type as I'm not going to use an iron.  A black, ultra fine point, permanent, Sharpie® felt-tip pen from Sanford® makes a consistent, fast-drying, easy-to-see line.

All Distinctive Pieces patterns are full-size so you can get right to work without any enlarging or taping segments together. I generally slip a large sheet of white paper under my flattened pattern.  The additional opaqueness helps me see the lines without a light box. I make a template for each part of the appliqué that is unique.  (If a part is rotated or flipped, the template is still the same and needs to be made only once.) My patterns have sewing sequence numbers.  In tracing the templates I follow the numbers that way I'm sure I haven't skipped any.  Generally, stems don't need templates unless they are particularly large or tapered in an unusual shape.  Begin at a corner of the template plastic sheet with the first number in the sequence that's not a stem.  Trace right on the line with even pressure and a continuous movement.  Keep the pen on the plastic.  Don't make hairy, sketchy, short strokes.  Aim to be precise.  Label the area just traced with its number.

Move the sheet of plastic slightly and go to the next number.  Your sheet of plastic will end up looking like a drawing of spread out puzzle pieces.  Logically you may think, “Just trace the whole picture and cut it apart.” It won't work that way.  If your scissors waiver you'll have to retrace multiple pieces.  Continue tracing and numbering each part of the appliqué — except stems.  Don't turn the sheet of plastic over to make something fit better.  Always work on the same side of the plastic.

Trace everything; then cut.  Use small, pointed scissors and cut on the line — right down the middle, not to the inside or outside of the line.  Once again, use smooth continuous cutting strokes.  Don't chop along the line.  I find it's helpful to rough cut a group of a few templates from the full sheet; then carefully cut out each one.  Cut out all of the templates.  If you feel the edges could be smoother, use an emery board (sandpaper nail file) to refine the edges of each template.

My pattern designs vary in complexity — sometimes each leaf/petal is unique other times there are multiple repeats.  I go through the sequence one more time to check that I haven't missed a number.  Literally follow the numbers and match up the templates.  If a part is exactly duplicated as first traced, record the additional number on the template.  Also, if a template is re-used but is flipped over, write that sequence number on the flip side. (There should be a number on one side or the other of the template for every time the same template appears.) With all the numbers on the side of the template the way they match the design you should be saved from cutting a piece of appliqué fabric backwards.  Store the templates in a ziplock baggie labeled with the pattern name.

To some, this may sound like a lot of work.  I'd rather make permanent templates once.  What if you decide to stitch an entire quilt using a single block? Or, a design becomes your favorite “go to” whenever you need a gift or guild donation.  I say make good templates from the start and you will be able to duplicate your work exactly no matter how many times you sew a design.

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